Omega Seamaster Professional 300m 2220.80 is the watch Daniel Craig wore in Casino Royale. It can be considered a facelift model to the first Bond Seamaster 2531.80. The upgrades to the classic 2531.80 are a dial with applied indices, longer hands, case-back with a large seamonster logo and a movement with co-axial escapement. According to omegaforums, the bracelet has been changed as well, but the details are unknown to me.
From distance, the differences between the 2220.80 and 2531.80 are subtle, but make enjoyable research project for anyone contemplating the purchase of a ‘Bond’ Seamaster. As you can expect from Omega, the watch is of high quality and is like many Omegas of the same time period. It is affordable, serviceable and makes a good everyday watch.
|Movement||2500C / 2500D|
|Lug to lug||47,5mm|
|Water Resistance||300 m|
Case & Crown
The case of the SMP300 2220.80 is slightly thicker than the one of 2254.50 and 2531.80 to fit in the co-axial movement. The watch itself is well defined and the polished and brushed surfaces are divided by sharp edges. Overall, the watch is flat and despite the added thickness, it sits better on my wrist than the 2254.50.
The lug to lug of the watch is 47,5mm and the lug width is 20mm, which makes the watch compatible with most straps people have around. The crown is protected by the crown guards, but crown is still easy to operate. Helium escape valve sits between 10 and 11 o’clock.
The thick non-tapering bracelet divides watch enthusiasts. I have not been a fan of Omega bracelets, but the 1503/825 bracelet of the 2220.80 is much more comfortable than the Planet Ocean 2201.50 bracelet. Unlike the 2201.50 and the 2254.50 bracelet there is more room for torsional movement as the bracelet is assembled from smaller individual pieces rather than flat full-steel links.
The bracelet is a pin & tube bracelet, which can be a PITA to shorten, but on the other hand screw lock glue is not needed. The clasp has two push-buttons that release the locking mechanism, and dive suit extension folds into the clasp. There is no micro-adjustment on even holes on the clasp. This can make the watch problematic for those with swelling wrists. The micro-adjustment clasp can be added, but it is quite sizeable compared to the standard clasp.
Dial & Bezel
The bezel of the 2220.80 is nearly useless from a pragmatic viewpoint. It is very hard to turn, as it is very difficult to get a good grip of it. Low finger dexterity or not, the rubber gasket hardens over time increasing the difficulty of the task. On the other hand, the flat-sided bezel assembly offers a nice subtle visual difference to many other watches.
The bezel and the dial are said to be deeper blue than those of 2531.80, but I haven’t had the opportunity to observe this in person. From distance, the waves can be hard to see from the dial, but from right angles they are one of the definitive elements of the watch. Omega removed the lines for the successor of 2220.80, but brought them back in the generation later in more loose pattern.
Only flaw in the dial is the date window and the small printed white area next to it. The quartz version 2221.80 has a small applied plot next to the dial whereas in 2220.80 there’s just a small painted lume area. Once you see it, the lack of lume and the asymmetry stands out. The rationale behind the decision is clear: due to the date positioning, the area is too small to fit an applied dot. For those who are excessively bothered by this detail, there is the 2221.80 quartz version.
The 2220.80 is a watch for collectors who find the 2531.80 lacking, but the latest generation Seamaster too big or flashy. Collectors after the 2220.80 need to decide on the condition, completeness of the set and type of the movement. Finding watches with caliber 2500D does not seem to be a problem, either.
From wearability viewpoint the 2220.80 is nearly a perfect watch. It shares similar near perfect proportions with the Rolex Submariner, but is still uniquely Omega with the lyre lugs and the bracelet. Many who prefer the Oyster bracelet ought to give a chance to the non-tapering Seamaster bracelet as it stands on it own. Finally, the 2220.80 is super wearable, iconic, unique and technically superb watch and can be a fit in nearly any collection.